Base - Space Hulk using Computer Circuit Board - Part 2

After looking at the base for a bit more I felt that I wanted to have some 'metal' showing through. I thought about just giving it a drybrush with Boltgun Metal which would give me the edge highlight I was after but then not the metal 'undertone' I wanted.

At this point I decided to start over and use a metal colour for the base instead of the dark brown.

Next a wash of 50/50 black and brown.

Followed by my custom 'Verdigris' wash.

Now you can see the metal showing through.

To finish off I used mt custom 'Rust' wash and all done!

I don't know how much different it would have turned out if I had just drybrushed the previous incantation but the metal is showing through and I think the result is better overall.



Vitor

Base - Space Hulk using Computer Circuit Board

 

I have been collecting pieces of computers for awhile now with the intention of making a nice piece of terrain out of them, unfortunately I never seem to find enough time. This made me think about something smaller in scale that would demonstrate the potential of computer bits. My idea for the base was to make it look like the model would be walking in an abandoned, rusted Space Hulk corridor.

I started off by cutting a small piece from the motherboard about the size of a 20mm base and primed it black.

I then painted it Dark Brown.

Next I painted it with my Verdigris mix that I use for my Minotaur Space Marines, leaving some of the Brown showing through.

 I then washed the base with my custom Rust mixture.

At this point I liked what I had, a nice rusty, corroded look.

After looking at it for a bit more I felt that I wanted to have some 'metal' showing through. I thought about just giving it a drybrush with Boltgun Metal which would give me the edge highlight I was after but then not the metal 'undertone' I wanted.

At this point I decided to start over and use a metal colour for the base instead of the dark brown. See next post to see how it works out.

Vitor

Terrain - Ploughed Fields with Sprouting Crops

 

As you can guess, as I was finishing up my ploughed fields piece of terrain I had the idea to add sprouting crops using herbs.

All you do is apply glue to the raised rows and sprinkle with your choice of herbs and voila! all done.

Vitor

Terrain - Ploughed Fields

While I have been trying to figure out what to do about my 'Open Fire' armies I decided to have a go at making some terrain that will go with my WW2 games, to come in the future, as well as can be used in Warhammer Fantasy and 40k as well if your battle is set on an earth-like planet.

One of my general rules I follow for terrain on my blog is that it must be easy and cheap to make, everyone's time and pockets are pretty stretched already. I think expensive complicated stuff is not worth it because you can probably buy something that will be better unless you are a great terrain builder or just want custom made.

Now ploughed fields are pretty darn easy to make.

Take a suitable base, in my case hardboard, that's what we call it here, cut to desired shape.

Next take a hot glue gun and apply strips of glue in parallel lines across the board.

Here is a hot tip, if you get your wife, girlfriend or partner involved then she cant complain to you for spending so much time with your hobby because she is doing it as well!

 Apply white glue and cover with sand.

Prime or base in chosen colour.

After my brown base colour I applied a wash of black.

Followed by drybrushing of various shades of browns.

Easy, cheap and it looks very good!

Vitor.

Flames of War - Stug - Finished

I set about painting the camouflage as per the Open Fire video guide on the Official website.

The base brown camouflage was a 50/50 mix of Middlestone and Chocolate Brown and a 70/30 Chocolate Brown and Middlestone mix for the center part of the camouflage. The green was a 50/50 mix of Reflective Green and Middlestone as a base then a 70/30 mix of Reflective Green and Middlestone for the center of the camouflage.

The trick is to 'feather' the edges of the camouflage to help the next step of blending the camouflage into the tank with a drybrush of Middlestone, followed by another drybrush of Middlestone and Bone or Ivory.

The last step was to paint the details of the stowage and tools.


On a personal note, the model is covered with about 8 layers of paint due to my rookie mistake with the black prime and basecoat followed by the Middlestone layers not covering it enough. Secondly the drybrush finish is not the best I've ever achieved on a model again due to lack of coverage of the paint mix.

Anyhow here are the rest of the pictures for your enjoyment.

Vitor

Flames of War - Stug WIP

I started work on my Open Fire starter Stug's by priming them black after assembly, which had no poor fit issues like the Shermans. I also added some coins to the underside to add some weight to the models, I initially thought there would be enough space inside the models but the fit is pretty tight.

I then had to mix my own custom version of Valejo Middlestone as I had none. I painted my first layer onto the models and thought to myself ^&%$£ idiot yellow over black does not work so well, thinking my painting ABC's don't apply to Flames of War models!! I had to paint on about 3 layers at least to get a decent coverage.

I then washed the entire model with a brown wash to add some shading.

Next was to clean up the model where there was too much wash pooling. After that it was time to paint the tracks and wheels. I used a boltgun metal base with a 50/50 black/brown wash over the top.

The wheels are basic black.

Next up the camouflage and finishing touches.

Vitor

Badab War - Marines Errant - Finished

Well here he is, all decked out in my take on the Marines Errant colour scheme influenced by the Forge World pictures. I have placed him on my Volcanic Base made from ground Pepper Corns and Weathering Pigment. ( see link basing-with-ground-black-pepper )

I think this could be a fantastic scheme on an army and it is very easy and quick to paint, the basic troops don't have the gold trim. If you add in the chapter symbol to the shoulder pads and some Blood Angel Sanguinary Guard Torso's for Sergeants or Captains and tabards here and there you will have a fantastic looking army.

Hope you try out this technique on your models and let me know if you do.

Vitor.

Badab War - Marines Errant WIP

After I did my Sons of Horus test model using the glazing technique, which didn't work for that model, I saw potential on using this method on other marine colour schemes.

There were two chapters that specifically came to mind, one of them was the Marines Errant. As a fan of the Badab War I noticed that the few people collect Marines Errant and there is very little out there if you Google search images for them. Personally I really like the half and half colour scheme especially after Forge World represented them with almost a silver and blue scheme rather than a white and blue scheme. I decided to try out my glazing / wash technique on this Chapter. I went for the Vanguard Assault Squad scheme as the gold trim would be a nice offset colour. (see picture at top)

I started with a black primer and a watered down base coat of black.

Next was a coat of Boltgun Metal.

Followed by a coat of Chainmail.

I then washed the entire model with a Black wash trying to keep it in the recesses.

I then cleaned up the model with Chainmail. Next was a layer of Mithril Silver to bring it to that 'almost white' look.

Now I applied a several layers of Blue wash to get the look you want, each time waiting for the previous layer to dry and applying the successive washes to the areas that would be in shadow.

When I was happy with the blue I applied my base colour for the gold which is a 50/50 mix of Shining Gold and Brown, followed by a layer of Shining Gold.

All I have to do now if finish up the Gold and paint the details although I wont be painting the icon on the shoulder pad this time.

Vitor.